Saturday 16 June 2007

Saturday 9 June - The Roaches and Hen Cloud.

Set off earlyish from home and arrived at the Roaches around lunch time, where we met Bill.

Via Delorosa - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.

A nice two pitch intorductory Roaches route with a cool jam. Classic Rock tick too. Lead.

Valkyrie - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.

Seconded this suposed uber classic to Dad, wasn't impressed really. The climbing wasn't half as good as Via Delorosa and it didn't deserve to kiss Eliminate A's shoes.

Pebbledash - HVS 5a **. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.

After both Dad and Bill's fairly pathetic attempts to lead Matenee (HVS 5b). Bill lead up this pleasant HVS. There was this dead hot eastern european aupair climbing it before us, why can't I have one of those?

Black and Tan's Climb - Severe ***. With William Ripley.

After looking at Saul's Crack, which had killer biting things around it I ran up this pleasant Classic Rock route.

The Sloth - HVS 5a (E1 4c) ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.

An awsome lead by Dad, the only time I have ever seen other climbers begin to clap! Very Whillansesque, a pause by the cheeseblock and then straight over the roof, no fannying around placing gear, to the bomber jugs and jams. Both Bill and I descided we'd have placed gear on the roof rather and messed around. A good lead in good style.

Reunion Crack - VS 5a **. With William Ripley.

Joe Brown was a monster and I can't climb grit or his awe inspiring routes. Went up in the evening for a quick climb and I failed miserably on this route. My ability to lay away and jam is pathetic. Must do better next time.

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