Sunday, 24 June 2007

Saturday 23 June - Wen Zawn

Back for a rematch, after scaring myself silly on Wen previously.

Dream of White Horses - HVS 4b 5a 5a 4b ***. With William Ripley

Luckily we were first on this route, otherwise we would have been following a very slow party of three across the zawn. Dream certianlly lived up to its reputation, the atmosphere and the climbing was superb. Dad lead the first pitch, which was about 4b, not 5a as NWR sugests. the next pitch and first traverse pitch was mine. brilliant climbing, with questionable gear, which often was not frequentent and some unrevserible moves(they may have been, but fortuanatley i didn't have to try). Glad I didn't get gripped agian, but i was still pleased to reach the belay. Probibley top end 4c rather than 5a. The next pitch was more like 5a than 4c in my view with some thin moves, I managed to pursade a stuck number 5 nut out too. The last pitch, in some respects was a disaponitment. Although the best pitch on the route, offering stunning atmospheric climbing, I found the climbing really obvious with big jugs all the way. Still a damn good route though!

Concreate Chimney - HVS 5a 5a ***/ With William Ripley.

Orginally I detered from this route due to its name! Fortuanatley it avoids the conglomerate chimney and offers stunning climbing adjacent to it instead. Belaying Dad on the first pitch was so cold I wore my puffball! The first pitch was brilliant, big holds and good gear, climbing through some steep and impressive terrain. I was somewhat nervous about the next pitch as overhangs are not my fortee, however this one was friendly with big holds, runners and bridging, enableing me not to get pumped out of my mind. A superb route, cheers for the recomendation Andy! Finally I've managed to lead a Joe Brown route, without failing or gibbering - Gogarth's not that scary really!

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