Thursday, 28 June 2007

Wednesday 27 June - Serengeti

Seams the Same - E1 5b **. With Geth Thomas.

After having a mini epic wandering up to the bus stop after work I managed to pursade some guys to go climbing with me. We started at Serengeti and followed Geth up this cool, but sadly polished extreme.

Seamstress - VS 4c **. With Geth Thomas.

After learing my lesson from falling off, I descided to warm up on some thing easy. A nice route, but the gear isn't as good as he guide book suggests.

Peter Pan - E2 5b *. With Geth Thomas.

A brilliant looking route, with a photogenic line, looks even better in the sun. Unfortuanatley the climbing is crap. The top moves are quite sequencey. Geth led first and then I followed with the clips in.

Slippery People - E2 5c **. With Geth Thomas.

Following Ioan and Ed's recomendation for a soft touch E2 I had a pop at this. It was desperate, not suprisin when you I realised later that I was on the wrong route, actually Tentive Desicsion E5 6a!

Wednesday, 27 June 2007

Tuesday 26 June - Bus Stop Quarry.

Equinox - VS 4c *. With Steaky Desroy.

After a relaxing days work at DMM, streaky and myself set out in serch of dry rock. I followed Graham up this nice little route, which does have gear unlike the guide book description suggests.

Solstice - HVS 5a *. With Steaky Desroy.

I lead this nice abeit polished route.

Sterling Silver - E2 5c **. With Streaky Desroy.

Graham lead this nice route which takes a line of hollow flakes in the rain. Nice climbing with good gear. Easy E2, but I did only second.

Monday, 25 June 2007

Sunday 24 June - Vivian Quarry.

Phycothearpy - E2 5c **. With Will Hunt, Jamie Light, Cliff Shafsby and Lyndsey.

The weather perked up in the afternoon, so I wandered into Vivian in serch of climbing partner. Came across this lot, who kindly allowed me to tie on with them. The all post on UKC so knew who I was when I introduced myself, they thought I was quite nice in real life though! I set of up Phycotherapy, always a bad idea warming up on E2, climbed the crux and the fell off, rocking over to place a runner. I was climbing on a mega skinny single rope and nearly decked on the rope strecth! I started seconding the route, but unfortuantley it started to rain. Hopefully I'll get it done latter in the week, but presently the weathers not looking good. Torrental rain in North Wales.

Sunday, 24 June 2007

Saturday 23 June - Wen Zawn

Back for a rematch, after scaring myself silly on Wen previously.

Dream of White Horses - HVS 4b 5a 5a 4b ***. With William Ripley

Luckily we were first on this route, otherwise we would have been following a very slow party of three across the zawn. Dream certianlly lived up to its reputation, the atmosphere and the climbing was superb. Dad lead the first pitch, which was about 4b, not 5a as NWR sugests. the next pitch and first traverse pitch was mine. brilliant climbing, with questionable gear, which often was not frequentent and some unrevserible moves(they may have been, but fortuanatley i didn't have to try). Glad I didn't get gripped agian, but i was still pleased to reach the belay. Probibley top end 4c rather than 5a. The next pitch was more like 5a than 4c in my view with some thin moves, I managed to pursade a stuck number 5 nut out too. The last pitch, in some respects was a disaponitment. Although the best pitch on the route, offering stunning atmospheric climbing, I found the climbing really obvious with big jugs all the way. Still a damn good route though!

Concreate Chimney - HVS 5a 5a ***/ With William Ripley.

Orginally I detered from this route due to its name! Fortuanatley it avoids the conglomerate chimney and offers stunning climbing adjacent to it instead. Belaying Dad on the first pitch was so cold I wore my puffball! The first pitch was brilliant, big holds and good gear, climbing through some steep and impressive terrain. I was somewhat nervous about the next pitch as overhangs are not my fortee, however this one was friendly with big holds, runners and bridging, enableing me not to get pumped out of my mind. A superb route, cheers for the recomendation Andy! Finally I've managed to lead a Joe Brown route, without failing or gibbering - Gogarth's not that scary really!

Wednesday, 20 June 2007

Wednesday 20 June - Hodge Close Quarry.

Sky - f6b+ *. With Andy Hobson

After one lesson of school I got bored. My English teacher was ill and there is no ponit going to geography (it is only colouring afterall). So I begin walking/hitching home. I managed to get hom in about 50 minutes and three lifts. A taxi driver who didn't charge, An old man who was spot on and like me hated the Daily Mail and Frank, a local farmer. Once home I dashed in and grabbed some gear (climbing not drugs) and walked out. Managed to get to Ambilside in a 3 too. First a pair of students from Southhampton, the girl was rather tasty! Second with the Local copper. Third with a strange old couple in their fifties. I met Andy in Ambleside and we quickly drove to Hodgeclose. We rapped into the quarry and Andy started up Sky, however after a short while it began to rain and we started and mini epic to retrive the gear, involving multipile absails and getting wet. After this we returned to Ambleside for food and retail thearapy, Lakes climber made me a cuppa. I then managed to hitch home again in three. First and Couple to top of Kirkstone pass, then another couple to Paterdale. At which ponit it began to rain tourentailly, but luckliy I got picked up quickly by a kind couple who dropped me at me door. Oh well no climbing, but a fun day out!

Sunday, 17 June 2007

Sunday 17 June - Shepherds Crag

Creeping Jesus - HVS 5a **. With John.

After trying to warm up on the Grasp and not suprisingly falling off! I did this route again. It was as good as I remembered however the top half (top of Kransic Crack Direct) I found quite hard, despite having done it about 4 times before.

The weather then looked better so we descided to go to lower falcon, but it began to pour. After William descided that E2 in the rain was a silly idea we headed to Bowederstone Crag. Daniel and I messed around at the Bowederstone, whilst William and John and absailed down some mega E8, which Will's made his project for the end of the summer. Hitched back in a twoer. Nice bloke dropped me off home.

Wednesday 13 June - Vivian, Dali's and Tremadog.

Raining and dank on Anglesey this morning so packed up the tent and headed inland. Weather wasn't much better there either, but we descided to test the abilities of youth and old on the ultimate climbing medium, S-L-A-T-E!!! Not suprisingly yoof won!

Mental Lentals - HVS **. With William Ripley.

A nice introduction to slate climbing, with good hold, good bolts and good gear. fun fun fun. Lead.

The Monster Kitten - E1 5c *. With William Ripley.

A short and pumpy route, for both hands and feet. thin posertive hold and rockovers were the order of the day. Thankfully the route was well protected by a thrutch of good runners, but despite this I still downclimbed twice due to de-pump.

Zambesi - VS 4c. With William Ripley.

Seconded. Good.

Launching Pad - E1 5b. With William Ripley.

Easy E1, Glad of the bolts, would have been a different proposition without. At this ponit we were rained off, so after wandering the quarries, having a look and California Arete and Looning the Tube we retired for my first Pete's Eats exspirence (the best Caffi in the world!).

After buying Dad some new rock shoes, a very long dull and drawn out process, even for a gear freak, we drove to Tremadog where the rain had subsided.

Shadrach - VS 4c **. With William Ripley.

Even after spending what seemed like forever trying on boots in V12 he had manged to buy them too big. So we had to share, lowering my pair down to the second. A good route the first pitch, fortuanatley Dad's, was thrutchy. The second pitch, mine was technical and better.

Tuesday 12 June- Gogarth.

Britomartis - HVS 4c ***. William Ripley.

After getting lost looking for the crag, due to our combined incompetence we evetually got sorted and abbed down to do this route. found a number 5 nut on the ledge, which was nice. Watching seals playing, whilst belaying was magic. Dad was less than pleased when I asked him if he was safe on the Crux. Although his pitch was a juggy romp, it was mega pumpy and quite bold, great route pitch. The top pitch was brill too, with a cool traverse. Super route.

Wen - HVS 5a ***. With William Ripley.

This roue, confirms my view that Joe brown was/is the gaffer. Dad lead the first pitch, which despite being an evil offwidth and him dropping one of my cams into the sea was brilliant. I then attempted to lead the next pitch, which was going well until i got to this stopper move at a bludge. Whilst attempting to climb that a big wire, that I had presumed bomber just lifted out, scareing the living be'jebus out of me, making me totally gripped. At this ponit I down climbed and Dad lead the rest of the pitch. The top pitch was good and with hindsight I should have lead it. C'est la vie - good route though.

Monday 11 June - Gogarth

Left Bills at 06:30 to drop Caitlin off at OB Aberdovey for work exspirence. Dad then drove use to Anglesey.

Lighthouse Arete - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley.

The guide book described this route as, "the start of many Gogarth apprenticeships". Sounds good to me. Very similar to Chair Ladder with the wave cut platform. Dad lead the first pitch, I lead the top two to the top. Great route, I suprised how difficult the rock was to read.

Lighthouse Arete Direct - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley.

Dad lead the first pitch, intending to combine it with Blanco. He went off route and i ran it out to the top.

Bezel - VS 5a *. With William Ripley.

We then headed over to the upper tier, intending to do Parklane/Doomsville or one of the HVS, however it was begining to rain so we did Bezel instead. Dad lead the first pitch, I got the 5a pitch, which had this really cool move over an overhang. Good route. Enjoyed.

Saturday, 16 June 2007

Sunday 10 June - The Roaches and Hen Cloud.

Pedestal Route - HVD ***. With William and Cailtlin Ripley.

Nice route. Lead in one pitch.

Technical Slab with Neb Finish - VS 4c ***. With William and Caitlin Ripley.

A great route, which I secounded. Much better than Pedestal Route. Cool out there climbing on the top pitch. Another Classic Rock tick.

Saul's Crack - HVS 5a (5b due to polish) ***. With William and Caitlin Ripley.

I made an pathetic attempt to lead this route, but due to my inability to jam and climb go for it grit routes I failed. Dad lead in fine go for it style. Both me and Cait seconded. Good route, Joe Brown definatley was a monster!

Bachelors Butteress - VS 4b **. With William and Caitlin Ripley.

A nice, but quite bold route with the added bonus of a free 120cm sling jammed in a crack at the top. Lead.

Prow Cracks - V Diff *. With William and Cailtlin Ripley.

Prow Corner - V Diff **. With William and Caitlin Ripley.

I lead this nice route after niavely presuming that I would be able to lead Chalkstorm when its 25 degrees.

We then retired to the Roaches Cafe for cream teas at Dad's exspence! Followed by a couple of routes at Hen Cloud.

The Arete - HVD ***. With William Ripley.

The Guide book said this route was better than anything in the alps! Well I'm not sure about that, but it was damn good route, almost superseeding Heaven Crack as the best Diff on grit (that i've done).

Central Climb - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley.

Yuck! First pitch offwidth hell, which I couldn't do. Backed off and Dad lead running it together with second pitch, he likes thrutchy stuff. I lead second pitch, good route. Bill must have been a nutter to solo it and down climb!

Saturday 9 June - The Roaches and Hen Cloud.

Set off earlyish from home and arrived at the Roaches around lunch time, where we met Bill.

Via Delorosa - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.

A nice two pitch intorductory Roaches route with a cool jam. Classic Rock tick too. Lead.

Valkyrie - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.

Seconded this suposed uber classic to Dad, wasn't impressed really. The climbing wasn't half as good as Via Delorosa and it didn't deserve to kiss Eliminate A's shoes.

Pebbledash - HVS 5a **. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.

After both Dad and Bill's fairly pathetic attempts to lead Matenee (HVS 5b). Bill lead up this pleasant HVS. There was this dead hot eastern european aupair climbing it before us, why can't I have one of those?

Black and Tan's Climb - Severe ***. With William Ripley.

After looking at Saul's Crack, which had killer biting things around it I ran up this pleasant Classic Rock route.

The Sloth - HVS 5a (E1 4c) ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.

An awsome lead by Dad, the only time I have ever seen other climbers begin to clap! Very Whillansesque, a pause by the cheeseblock and then straight over the roof, no fannying around placing gear, to the bomber jugs and jams. Both Bill and I descided we'd have placed gear on the roof rather and messed around. A good lead in good style.

Reunion Crack - VS 5a **. With William Ripley.

Joe Brown was a monster and I can't climb grit or his awe inspiring routes. Went up in the evening for a quick climb and I failed miserably on this route. My ability to lay away and jam is pathetic. Must do better next time.

Friday, 8 June 2007

Friday 8 June - Black Crag

Jubilee Grooves - E1 5b **. With William Sim.

Hitched to Keswick, rather quickly actually. Tom Merchant kindly saw me and drove back to get me, he took me as far as Berrier, from their I quickly got picked up again. Met Will in Keswick and headed straight for Black Crag. The walk in was as always a bitch! The first 5a pitch was excellent quite bold climbing. Will lead the second, which i found hard for 4c but you always climb worse seconding. The top pitch was easy for 5b but quite bold, with a couple of cool moves to get into the groove, where there was thankfully gear. I then ran it out to the top.

Grand Allience E4 6a ***. With William Sim.

The chance of having to queue on an E4 on a weekday, especailly in the Lakes is slim, but Bill Birkett and Co. beat us to it. Oh well we were happy to wait. I lead the first 2 pitches in one, which was easy 5b. Will lead the top pitch onsite, no messing. Good lead. Then much to my suprise i seconded in good style. The moves on the slab were really nice, but with a scary runout. Glad the rope was above my head. One to lead when I'm good. I had a look at Prana as I absailed off, but descided to leave it until I've done a few more E2's. A week of climbing lies ahead, hope the weather holds.

Thursday 7 June - Dow Crag

Eliminate A - VS 4c ***. With Joseph Dixon.

The Desicion Maths AS Exam this morning, went quite well. Who care I've done 'em all now. The summer of climbing lies ahead. After the exam we jumped in Joe's car, went to his for lunch and then to Coniston. It had been ages since I went to Dow and i took the wrong tunring on the walk in, making it much steeper! I won't make that mistake again. It was really muggy and humid on the walk in, I was dripping by the foot of the crag.

Anyway, what a route, 6 stunning pitches, good gear and interesting climbing throughout. Joe and I swung leads. Although we could have run it together as 3 long pitches it was great fun to climb slowly and mull over such a stunning route. Pitch 5 was the best, with a brilliant moves as you traverse across the slab, under the overhang with all that space beneath you feet. Superb. Maybe the best VS in the Lakes?

From the summit with donned our boots, climbing on to the summit. We then walked down to the col, dumping our rucksacks and nipping on to Coniston Old Man. We then walked back passed the crag and down the car. A stunning route on a stunning day.

Sunday, 3 June 2007

Sunday 3 June - King's Meanburn

Scarlet Lyvennet - MVS 4a. With Caitlin Ripley.

After a somewhat dull, but necessaryweek of revison I was allowed out for an afternoons cragging. I set of up the flake (HS) first, but it was dirty and so i tohugh this looked better. A nice face climb with some bridging to begin with. Good gear all the way.

The Small Assassin - VS 5b. With Caitlin Ripley.

I asked Cailtin to choose the next route. She told me it was VS, but failed to mention the 5b. A nice boulderary start on the sandstone, followsed by runners and a strenous limestone crack, which I avoided to the right. If I had climbed climbed the crack direct I reckon the route would be E1.

TD Corner - Mild Severe. With Caitlin Ripley.

After Caitlin tried to lead Owl Crack, a vile MS (FRCC have interestingly given this Mod). I went up this corner, must be only limestone route in the world that requires number 4 friends, not that i had one.

Marik - HVS 5a ***. No second.

Caitlin had got bored by now, so I got Ian to belay me. I tried to do Ivy Crack, a steep E1 5b, but steep polished limestone is not my fortee. Not deteter I wandered round the corner to do Marik. This excellent VS, now HVS, was just as remebered it. Steep, fairly sustained climbing with bomber gear all the way. Unfortuanatley it is slightly polised and bit sandy. A serious contender for the best Cumbrian Very Severe (or HVS if you must) outside lakeland. Superb.