Sky - f6b+ *. With Andy Hobson
After one lesson of school I got bored. My English teacher was ill and there is no ponit going to geography (it is only colouring afterall). So I begin walking/hitching home. I managed to get hom in about 50 minutes and three lifts. A taxi driver who didn't charge, An old man who was spot on and like me hated the Daily Mail and Frank, a local farmer. Once home I dashed in and grabbed some gear (climbing not drugs) and walked out. Managed to get to Ambilside in a 3 too. First a pair of students from Southhampton, the girl was rather tasty! Second with the Local copper. Third with a strange old couple in their fifties. I met Andy in Ambleside and we quickly drove to Hodgeclose. We rapped into the quarry and Andy started up Sky, however after a short while it began to rain and we started and mini epic to retrive the gear, involving multipile absails and getting wet. After this we returned to Ambleside for food and retail thearapy, Lakes climber made me a cuppa. I then managed to hitch home again in three. First and Couple to top of Kirkstone pass, then another couple to Paterdale. At which ponit it began to rain tourentailly, but luckliy I got picked up quickly by a kind couple who dropped me at me door. Oh well no climbing, but a fun day out!
Wednesday, 20 June 2007
Sunday, 17 June 2007
Sunday 17 June - Shepherds Crag
Creeping Jesus - HVS 5a **. With John.
After trying to warm up on the Grasp and not suprisingly falling off! I did this route again. It was as good as I remembered however the top half (top of Kransic Crack Direct) I found quite hard, despite having done it about 4 times before.
The weather then looked better so we descided to go to lower falcon, but it began to pour. After William descided that E2 in the rain was a silly idea we headed to Bowederstone Crag. Daniel and I messed around at the Bowederstone, whilst William and John and absailed down some mega E8, which Will's made his project for the end of the summer. Hitched back in a twoer. Nice bloke dropped me off home.
After trying to warm up on the Grasp and not suprisingly falling off! I did this route again. It was as good as I remembered however the top half (top of Kransic Crack Direct) I found quite hard, despite having done it about 4 times before.
The weather then looked better so we descided to go to lower falcon, but it began to pour. After William descided that E2 in the rain was a silly idea we headed to Bowederstone Crag. Daniel and I messed around at the Bowederstone, whilst William and John and absailed down some mega E8, which Will's made his project for the end of the summer. Hitched back in a twoer. Nice bloke dropped me off home.
Wednesday 13 June - Vivian, Dali's and Tremadog.
Raining and dank on Anglesey this morning so packed up the tent and headed inland. Weather wasn't much better there either, but we descided to test the abilities of youth and old on the ultimate climbing medium, S-L-A-T-E!!! Not suprisingly yoof won!
Mental Lentals - HVS **. With William Ripley.
A nice introduction to slate climbing, with good hold, good bolts and good gear. fun fun fun. Lead.
The Monster Kitten - E1 5c *. With William Ripley.
A short and pumpy route, for both hands and feet. thin posertive hold and rockovers were the order of the day. Thankfully the route was well protected by a thrutch of good runners, but despite this I still downclimbed twice due to de-pump.
Zambesi - VS 4c. With William Ripley.
Seconded. Good.
Launching Pad - E1 5b. With William Ripley.
Easy E1, Glad of the bolts, would have been a different proposition without. At this ponit we were rained off, so after wandering the quarries, having a look and California Arete and Looning the Tube we retired for my first Pete's Eats exspirence (the best Caffi in the world!).
After buying Dad some new rock shoes, a very long dull and drawn out process, even for a gear freak, we drove to Tremadog where the rain had subsided.
Shadrach - VS 4c **. With William Ripley.
Even after spending what seemed like forever trying on boots in V12 he had manged to buy them too big. So we had to share, lowering my pair down to the second. A good route the first pitch, fortuanatley Dad's, was thrutchy. The second pitch, mine was technical and better.
Mental Lentals - HVS **. With William Ripley.
A nice introduction to slate climbing, with good hold, good bolts and good gear. fun fun fun. Lead.
The Monster Kitten - E1 5c *. With William Ripley.
A short and pumpy route, for both hands and feet. thin posertive hold and rockovers were the order of the day. Thankfully the route was well protected by a thrutch of good runners, but despite this I still downclimbed twice due to de-pump.
Zambesi - VS 4c. With William Ripley.
Seconded. Good.
Launching Pad - E1 5b. With William Ripley.
Easy E1, Glad of the bolts, would have been a different proposition without. At this ponit we were rained off, so after wandering the quarries, having a look and California Arete and Looning the Tube we retired for my first Pete's Eats exspirence (the best Caffi in the world!).
After buying Dad some new rock shoes, a very long dull and drawn out process, even for a gear freak, we drove to Tremadog where the rain had subsided.
Shadrach - VS 4c **. With William Ripley.
Even after spending what seemed like forever trying on boots in V12 he had manged to buy them too big. So we had to share, lowering my pair down to the second. A good route the first pitch, fortuanatley Dad's, was thrutchy. The second pitch, mine was technical and better.
Tuesday 12 June- Gogarth.
Britomartis - HVS 4c ***. William Ripley.
After getting lost looking for the crag, due to our combined incompetence we evetually got sorted and abbed down to do this route. found a number 5 nut on the ledge, which was nice. Watching seals playing, whilst belaying was magic. Dad was less than pleased when I asked him if he was safe on the Crux. Although his pitch was a juggy romp, it was mega pumpy and quite bold, great route pitch. The top pitch was brill too, with a cool traverse. Super route.
Wen - HVS 5a ***. With William Ripley.
This roue, confirms my view that Joe brown was/is the gaffer. Dad lead the first pitch, which despite being an evil offwidth and him dropping one of my cams into the sea was brilliant. I then attempted to lead the next pitch, which was going well until i got to this stopper move at a bludge. Whilst attempting to climb that a big wire, that I had presumed bomber just lifted out, scareing the living be'jebus out of me, making me totally gripped. At this ponit I down climbed and Dad lead the rest of the pitch. The top pitch was good and with hindsight I should have lead it. C'est la vie - good route though.
After getting lost looking for the crag, due to our combined incompetence we evetually got sorted and abbed down to do this route. found a number 5 nut on the ledge, which was nice. Watching seals playing, whilst belaying was magic. Dad was less than pleased when I asked him if he was safe on the Crux. Although his pitch was a juggy romp, it was mega pumpy and quite bold, great route pitch. The top pitch was brill too, with a cool traverse. Super route.
Wen - HVS 5a ***. With William Ripley.
This roue, confirms my view that Joe brown was/is the gaffer. Dad lead the first pitch, which despite being an evil offwidth and him dropping one of my cams into the sea was brilliant. I then attempted to lead the next pitch, which was going well until i got to this stopper move at a bludge. Whilst attempting to climb that a big wire, that I had presumed bomber just lifted out, scareing the living be'jebus out of me, making me totally gripped. At this ponit I down climbed and Dad lead the rest of the pitch. The top pitch was good and with hindsight I should have lead it. C'est la vie - good route though.
Monday 11 June - Gogarth
Left Bills at 06:30 to drop Caitlin off at OB Aberdovey for work exspirence. Dad then drove use to Anglesey.
Lighthouse Arete - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley.
The guide book described this route as, "the start of many Gogarth apprenticeships". Sounds good to me. Very similar to Chair Ladder with the wave cut platform. Dad lead the first pitch, I lead the top two to the top. Great route, I suprised how difficult the rock was to read.
Lighthouse Arete Direct - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley.
Dad lead the first pitch, intending to combine it with Blanco. He went off route and i ran it out to the top.
Bezel - VS 5a *. With William Ripley.
We then headed over to the upper tier, intending to do Parklane/Doomsville or one of the HVS, however it was begining to rain so we did Bezel instead. Dad lead the first pitch, I got the 5a pitch, which had this really cool move over an overhang. Good route. Enjoyed.
Lighthouse Arete - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley.
The guide book described this route as, "the start of many Gogarth apprenticeships". Sounds good to me. Very similar to Chair Ladder with the wave cut platform. Dad lead the first pitch, I lead the top two to the top. Great route, I suprised how difficult the rock was to read.
Lighthouse Arete Direct - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley.
Dad lead the first pitch, intending to combine it with Blanco. He went off route and i ran it out to the top.
Bezel - VS 5a *. With William Ripley.
We then headed over to the upper tier, intending to do Parklane/Doomsville or one of the HVS, however it was begining to rain so we did Bezel instead. Dad lead the first pitch, I got the 5a pitch, which had this really cool move over an overhang. Good route. Enjoyed.
Saturday, 16 June 2007
Sunday 10 June - The Roaches and Hen Cloud.
Pedestal Route - HVD ***. With William and Cailtlin Ripley.
Nice route. Lead in one pitch.
Technical Slab with Neb Finish - VS 4c ***. With William and Caitlin Ripley.
A great route, which I secounded. Much better than Pedestal Route. Cool out there climbing on the top pitch. Another Classic Rock tick.
Saul's Crack - HVS 5a (5b due to polish) ***. With William and Caitlin Ripley.
I made an pathetic attempt to lead this route, but due to my inability to jam and climb go for it grit routes I failed. Dad lead in fine go for it style. Both me and Cait seconded. Good route, Joe Brown definatley was a monster!
Bachelors Butteress - VS 4b **. With William and Caitlin Ripley.
A nice, but quite bold route with the added bonus of a free 120cm sling jammed in a crack at the top. Lead.
Prow Cracks - V Diff *. With William and Cailtlin Ripley.
Prow Corner - V Diff **. With William and Caitlin Ripley.
I lead this nice route after niavely presuming that I would be able to lead Chalkstorm when its 25 degrees.
We then retired to the Roaches Cafe for cream teas at Dad's exspence! Followed by a couple of routes at Hen Cloud.
The Arete - HVD ***. With William Ripley.
The Guide book said this route was better than anything in the alps! Well I'm not sure about that, but it was damn good route, almost superseeding Heaven Crack as the best Diff on grit (that i've done).
Central Climb - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley.
Yuck! First pitch offwidth hell, which I couldn't do. Backed off and Dad lead running it together with second pitch, he likes thrutchy stuff. I lead second pitch, good route. Bill must have been a nutter to solo it and down climb!
Nice route. Lead in one pitch.
Technical Slab with Neb Finish - VS 4c ***. With William and Caitlin Ripley.
A great route, which I secounded. Much better than Pedestal Route. Cool out there climbing on the top pitch. Another Classic Rock tick.
Saul's Crack - HVS 5a (5b due to polish) ***. With William and Caitlin Ripley.
I made an pathetic attempt to lead this route, but due to my inability to jam and climb go for it grit routes I failed. Dad lead in fine go for it style. Both me and Cait seconded. Good route, Joe Brown definatley was a monster!
Bachelors Butteress - VS 4b **. With William and Caitlin Ripley.
A nice, but quite bold route with the added bonus of a free 120cm sling jammed in a crack at the top. Lead.
Prow Cracks - V Diff *. With William and Cailtlin Ripley.
Prow Corner - V Diff **. With William and Caitlin Ripley.
I lead this nice route after niavely presuming that I would be able to lead Chalkstorm when its 25 degrees.
We then retired to the Roaches Cafe for cream teas at Dad's exspence! Followed by a couple of routes at Hen Cloud.
The Arete - HVD ***. With William Ripley.
The Guide book said this route was better than anything in the alps! Well I'm not sure about that, but it was damn good route, almost superseeding Heaven Crack as the best Diff on grit (that i've done).
Central Climb - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley.
Yuck! First pitch offwidth hell, which I couldn't do. Backed off and Dad lead running it together with second pitch, he likes thrutchy stuff. I lead second pitch, good route. Bill must have been a nutter to solo it and down climb!
Saturday 9 June - The Roaches and Hen Cloud.
Set off earlyish from home and arrived at the Roaches around lunch time, where we met Bill.
Via Delorosa - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.
A nice two pitch intorductory Roaches route with a cool jam. Classic Rock tick too. Lead.
Valkyrie - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.
Seconded this suposed uber classic to Dad, wasn't impressed really. The climbing wasn't half as good as Via Delorosa and it didn't deserve to kiss Eliminate A's shoes.
Pebbledash - HVS 5a **. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.
After both Dad and Bill's fairly pathetic attempts to lead Matenee (HVS 5b). Bill lead up this pleasant HVS. There was this dead hot eastern european aupair climbing it before us, why can't I have one of those?
Black and Tan's Climb - Severe ***. With William Ripley.
After looking at Saul's Crack, which had killer biting things around it I ran up this pleasant Classic Rock route.
The Sloth - HVS 5a (E1 4c) ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.
An awsome lead by Dad, the only time I have ever seen other climbers begin to clap! Very Whillansesque, a pause by the cheeseblock and then straight over the roof, no fannying around placing gear, to the bomber jugs and jams. Both Bill and I descided we'd have placed gear on the roof rather and messed around. A good lead in good style.
Reunion Crack - VS 5a **. With William Ripley.
Joe Brown was a monster and I can't climb grit or his awe inspiring routes. Went up in the evening for a quick climb and I failed miserably on this route. My ability to lay away and jam is pathetic. Must do better next time.
Via Delorosa - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.
A nice two pitch intorductory Roaches route with a cool jam. Classic Rock tick too. Lead.
Valkyrie - VS 4c ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.
Seconded this suposed uber classic to Dad, wasn't impressed really. The climbing wasn't half as good as Via Delorosa and it didn't deserve to kiss Eliminate A's shoes.
Pebbledash - HVS 5a **. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.
After both Dad and Bill's fairly pathetic attempts to lead Matenee (HVS 5b). Bill lead up this pleasant HVS. There was this dead hot eastern european aupair climbing it before us, why can't I have one of those?
Black and Tan's Climb - Severe ***. With William Ripley.
After looking at Saul's Crack, which had killer biting things around it I ran up this pleasant Classic Rock route.
The Sloth - HVS 5a (E1 4c) ***. With William Ripley and Bill Parker.
An awsome lead by Dad, the only time I have ever seen other climbers begin to clap! Very Whillansesque, a pause by the cheeseblock and then straight over the roof, no fannying around placing gear, to the bomber jugs and jams. Both Bill and I descided we'd have placed gear on the roof rather and messed around. A good lead in good style.
Reunion Crack - VS 5a **. With William Ripley.
Joe Brown was a monster and I can't climb grit or his awe inspiring routes. Went up in the evening for a quick climb and I failed miserably on this route. My ability to lay away and jam is pathetic. Must do better next time.
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