Orion Direct - V 5 **** - Ben Nevis. With William Sim
Got up at 4:30 while all my friends were still in bed, but despite this we were still second party on the route. We were happy to queue though. We started climbing at 7:00am. Will got the first pitch, which was hacked. I led through onto the second, which was nice wee gully. Third pitch had a scary looking bit of mixed climbing on it so i was more than obliged to let Will lead. It wasn't half as hard as it first appeared. I lead the 4th pitch that took us to the foot of the crux, but was unremarkable. William then led the Crux, which was hacked and scary. A determined and focused lead by William. the screws looked better than they were! The next two pitch were unremarkable apart from Will getting ice in his eye. I then lead the top ice pitch, which was excellent and good fun. We had to move together before I got to the belay though! The top pitch was a simple snow slope. We basked at the top, like the cat with the cream, reflecting on our efforts. Hats of to Smith and Marshall for vision to climb thing in 1960. We then descended Tower Gully and after Will proclaimed that Psychedelic Wall was going to knacker him out we descided Tower Ridge would be a good laugh.
Tower Ridge - III 3 **** (AD in conditions) - Ben Nevis. With William Sim.
Got up at 4:30 while all my friends were still in bed, but despite this we were still second party on the route. We were happy to queue though. We started climbing at 7:00am. Will got the first pitch, which was hacked. I led through onto the second, which was nice wee gully. Third pitch had a scary looking bit of mixed climbing on it so i was more than obliged to let Will lead. It wasn't half as hard as it first appeared. I lead the 4th pitch that took us to the foot of the crux, but was unremarkable. William then led the Crux, which was hacked and scary. A determined and focused lead by William. the screws looked better than they were! The next two pitch were unremarkable apart from Will getting ice in his eye. I then lead the top ice pitch, which was excellent and good fun. We had to move together before I got to the belay though! The top pitch was a simple snow slope. We basked at the top, like the cat with the cream, reflecting on our efforts. Hats of to Smith and Marshall for vision to climb thing in 1960. We then descended Tower Gully and after Will proclaimed that Psychedelic Wall was going to knacker him out we descided Tower Ridge would be a good laugh.
Tower Ridge - III 3 **** (AD in conditions) - Ben Nevis. With William Sim.
Will Sim easily heading along the Eastern Traverse
We descided to go light and left our bags at the bottom. Just taking a rope and few wires and slings with us. We soloed up to the Eastern Traverse, where Will wanted to rope. We swung leads from their up to the top. A fine route in alpine conditions. Again we descended Tower Gully and I found a krab and leash on the descent. Dinner was pasta and tomato sauce. Folks in the hut are all jolly. We set the alarm for 5:00 again. Ponit 5 tommorow's game.
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