Troutdale Pinicle - Severe ***. With Wayne Cartmel.
Joe and I went after school with Wayne and Arran to do their first route. Both really enjoyed Troutdale Pinicle and climbed with style.
Sunday, 8 July 2007
Monday, 2 July 2007
Monday 2 July - Quayfoot Butteress.
Mandrake - HVS 5a ***. With William Ripley.
Driving down Borrowdale the weather wasn't looking promising, but desperate for our fix we proceeded. On arriving at the foot of the crag that weather still wasn't looking promsing and the midges were out with avengence. Dad lead the first pitch, leaving me to tackle to top pitch, which I remember being somewhat desperate but I was only 14 last time I did the route. It was pleasantly suprising pitch, with lots of gear and equal amounts of polish and a great pullover move over the roof. Good fun.
Driving down Borrowdale the weather wasn't looking promising, but desperate for our fix we proceeded. On arriving at the foot of the crag that weather still wasn't looking promsing and the midges were out with avengence. Dad lead the first pitch, leaving me to tackle to top pitch, which I remember being somewhat desperate but I was only 14 last time I did the route. It was pleasantly suprising pitch, with lots of gear and equal amounts of polish and a great pullover move over the roof. Good fun.
Thursday, 28 June 2007
Wednesday 27 June - Serengeti
Seams the Same - E1 5b **. With Geth Thomas.
After having a mini epic wandering up to the bus stop after work I managed to pursade some guys to go climbing with me. We started at Serengeti and followed Geth up this cool, but sadly polished extreme.
Seamstress - VS 4c **. With Geth Thomas.
After learing my lesson from falling off, I descided to warm up on some thing easy. A nice route, but the gear isn't as good as he guide book suggests.
Peter Pan - E2 5b *. With Geth Thomas.
A brilliant looking route, with a photogenic line, looks even better in the sun. Unfortuanatley the climbing is crap. The top moves are quite sequencey. Geth led first and then I followed with the clips in.
Slippery People - E2 5c **. With Geth Thomas.
Following Ioan and Ed's recomendation for a soft touch E2 I had a pop at this. It was desperate, not suprisin when you I realised later that I was on the wrong route, actually Tentive Desicsion E5 6a!
After having a mini epic wandering up to the bus stop after work I managed to pursade some guys to go climbing with me. We started at Serengeti and followed Geth up this cool, but sadly polished extreme.
Seamstress - VS 4c **. With Geth Thomas.
After learing my lesson from falling off, I descided to warm up on some thing easy. A nice route, but the gear isn't as good as he guide book suggests.
Peter Pan - E2 5b *. With Geth Thomas.
A brilliant looking route, with a photogenic line, looks even better in the sun. Unfortuanatley the climbing is crap. The top moves are quite sequencey. Geth led first and then I followed with the clips in.
Slippery People - E2 5c **. With Geth Thomas.
Following Ioan and Ed's recomendation for a soft touch E2 I had a pop at this. It was desperate, not suprisin when you I realised later that I was on the wrong route, actually Tentive Desicsion E5 6a!
Wednesday, 27 June 2007
Tuesday 26 June - Bus Stop Quarry.
Equinox - VS 4c *. With Steaky Desroy.
After a relaxing days work at DMM, streaky and myself set out in serch of dry rock. I followed Graham up this nice little route, which does have gear unlike the guide book description suggests.
Solstice - HVS 5a *. With Steaky Desroy.
I lead this nice abeit polished route.
Sterling Silver - E2 5c **. With Streaky Desroy.
Graham lead this nice route which takes a line of hollow flakes in the rain. Nice climbing with good gear. Easy E2, but I did only second.
After a relaxing days work at DMM, streaky and myself set out in serch of dry rock. I followed Graham up this nice little route, which does have gear unlike the guide book description suggests.
Solstice - HVS 5a *. With Steaky Desroy.
I lead this nice abeit polished route.
Sterling Silver - E2 5c **. With Streaky Desroy.
Graham lead this nice route which takes a line of hollow flakes in the rain. Nice climbing with good gear. Easy E2, but I did only second.
Monday, 25 June 2007
Sunday 24 June - Vivian Quarry.
Phycothearpy - E2 5c **. With Will Hunt, Jamie Light, Cliff Shafsby and Lyndsey.
The weather perked up in the afternoon, so I wandered into Vivian in serch of climbing partner. Came across this lot, who kindly allowed me to tie on with them. The all post on UKC so knew who I was when I introduced myself, they thought I was quite nice in real life though! I set of up Phycotherapy, always a bad idea warming up on E2, climbed the crux and the fell off, rocking over to place a runner. I was climbing on a mega skinny single rope and nearly decked on the rope strecth! I started seconding the route, but unfortuantley it started to rain. Hopefully I'll get it done latter in the week, but presently the weathers not looking good. Torrental rain in North Wales.
The weather perked up in the afternoon, so I wandered into Vivian in serch of climbing partner. Came across this lot, who kindly allowed me to tie on with them. The all post on UKC so knew who I was when I introduced myself, they thought I was quite nice in real life though! I set of up Phycotherapy, always a bad idea warming up on E2, climbed the crux and the fell off, rocking over to place a runner. I was climbing on a mega skinny single rope and nearly decked on the rope strecth! I started seconding the route, but unfortuantley it started to rain. Hopefully I'll get it done latter in the week, but presently the weathers not looking good. Torrental rain in North Wales.
Sunday, 24 June 2007
Saturday 23 June - Wen Zawn
Back for a rematch, after scaring myself silly on Wen previously.
Dream of White Horses - HVS 4b 5a 5a 4b ***. With William Ripley
Luckily we were first on this route, otherwise we would have been following a very slow party of three across the zawn. Dream certianlly lived up to its reputation, the atmosphere and the climbing was superb. Dad lead the first pitch, which was about 4b, not 5a as NWR sugests. the next pitch and first traverse pitch was mine. brilliant climbing, with questionable gear, which often was not frequentent and some unrevserible moves(they may have been, but fortuanatley i didn't have to try). Glad I didn't get gripped agian, but i was still pleased to reach the belay. Probibley top end 4c rather than 5a. The next pitch was more like 5a than 4c in my view with some thin moves, I managed to pursade a stuck number 5 nut out too. The last pitch, in some respects was a disaponitment. Although the best pitch on the route, offering stunning atmospheric climbing, I found the climbing really obvious with big jugs all the way. Still a damn good route though!
Concreate Chimney - HVS 5a 5a ***/ With William Ripley.
Orginally I detered from this route due to its name! Fortuanatley it avoids the conglomerate chimney and offers stunning climbing adjacent to it instead. Belaying Dad on the first pitch was so cold I wore my puffball! The first pitch was brilliant, big holds and good gear, climbing through some steep and impressive terrain. I was somewhat nervous about the next pitch as overhangs are not my fortee, however this one was friendly with big holds, runners and bridging, enableing me not to get pumped out of my mind. A superb route, cheers for the recomendation Andy! Finally I've managed to lead a Joe Brown route, without failing or gibbering - Gogarth's not that scary really!
Dream of White Horses - HVS 4b 5a 5a 4b ***. With William Ripley
Luckily we were first on this route, otherwise we would have been following a very slow party of three across the zawn. Dream certianlly lived up to its reputation, the atmosphere and the climbing was superb. Dad lead the first pitch, which was about 4b, not 5a as NWR sugests. the next pitch and first traverse pitch was mine. brilliant climbing, with questionable gear, which often was not frequentent and some unrevserible moves(they may have been, but fortuanatley i didn't have to try). Glad I didn't get gripped agian, but i was still pleased to reach the belay. Probibley top end 4c rather than 5a. The next pitch was more like 5a than 4c in my view with some thin moves, I managed to pursade a stuck number 5 nut out too. The last pitch, in some respects was a disaponitment. Although the best pitch on the route, offering stunning atmospheric climbing, I found the climbing really obvious with big jugs all the way. Still a damn good route though!
Concreate Chimney - HVS 5a 5a ***/ With William Ripley.
Orginally I detered from this route due to its name! Fortuanatley it avoids the conglomerate chimney and offers stunning climbing adjacent to it instead. Belaying Dad on the first pitch was so cold I wore my puffball! The first pitch was brilliant, big holds and good gear, climbing through some steep and impressive terrain. I was somewhat nervous about the next pitch as overhangs are not my fortee, however this one was friendly with big holds, runners and bridging, enableing me not to get pumped out of my mind. A superb route, cheers for the recomendation Andy! Finally I've managed to lead a Joe Brown route, without failing or gibbering - Gogarth's not that scary really!
Wednesday, 20 June 2007
Wednesday 20 June - Hodge Close Quarry.
Sky - f6b+ *. With Andy Hobson
After one lesson of school I got bored. My English teacher was ill and there is no ponit going to geography (it is only colouring afterall). So I begin walking/hitching home. I managed to get hom in about 50 minutes and three lifts. A taxi driver who didn't charge, An old man who was spot on and like me hated the Daily Mail and Frank, a local farmer. Once home I dashed in and grabbed some gear (climbing not drugs) and walked out. Managed to get to Ambilside in a 3 too. First a pair of students from Southhampton, the girl was rather tasty! Second with the Local copper. Third with a strange old couple in their fifties. I met Andy in Ambleside and we quickly drove to Hodgeclose. We rapped into the quarry and Andy started up Sky, however after a short while it began to rain and we started and mini epic to retrive the gear, involving multipile absails and getting wet. After this we returned to Ambleside for food and retail thearapy, Lakes climber made me a cuppa. I then managed to hitch home again in three. First and Couple to top of Kirkstone pass, then another couple to Paterdale. At which ponit it began to rain tourentailly, but luckliy I got picked up quickly by a kind couple who dropped me at me door. Oh well no climbing, but a fun day out!
After one lesson of school I got bored. My English teacher was ill and there is no ponit going to geography (it is only colouring afterall). So I begin walking/hitching home. I managed to get hom in about 50 minutes and three lifts. A taxi driver who didn't charge, An old man who was spot on and like me hated the Daily Mail and Frank, a local farmer. Once home I dashed in and grabbed some gear (climbing not drugs) and walked out. Managed to get to Ambilside in a 3 too. First a pair of students from Southhampton, the girl was rather tasty! Second with the Local copper. Third with a strange old couple in their fifties. I met Andy in Ambleside and we quickly drove to Hodgeclose. We rapped into the quarry and Andy started up Sky, however after a short while it began to rain and we started and mini epic to retrive the gear, involving multipile absails and getting wet. After this we returned to Ambleside for food and retail thearapy, Lakes climber made me a cuppa. I then managed to hitch home again in three. First and Couple to top of Kirkstone pass, then another couple to Paterdale. At which ponit it began to rain tourentailly, but luckliy I got picked up quickly by a kind couple who dropped me at me door. Oh well no climbing, but a fun day out!
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