Jubilee Grooves - E1 5b **. With William Sim.
Hitched to Keswick, rather quickly actually. Tom Merchant kindly saw me and drove back to get me, he took me as far as Berrier, from their I quickly got picked up again. Met Will in Keswick and headed straight for Black Crag. The walk in was as always a bitch! The first 5a pitch was excellent quite bold climbing. Will lead the second, which i found hard for 4c but you always climb worse seconding. The top pitch was easy for 5b but quite bold, with a couple of cool moves to get into the groove, where there was thankfully gear. I then ran it out to the top.
Grand Allience E4 6a ***. With William Sim.
The chance of having to queue on an E4 on a weekday, especailly in the Lakes is slim, but Bill Birkett and Co. beat us to it. Oh well we were happy to wait. I lead the first 2 pitches in one, which was easy 5b. Will lead the top pitch onsite, no messing. Good lead. Then much to my suprise i seconded in good style. The moves on the slab were really nice, but with a scary runout. Glad the rope was above my head. One to lead when I'm good. I had a look at Prana as I absailed off, but descided to leave it until I've done a few more E2's. A week of climbing lies ahead, hope the weather holds.
Friday, 8 June 2007
Thursday 7 June - Dow Crag
Eliminate A - VS 4c ***. With Joseph Dixon.
The Desicion Maths AS Exam this morning, went quite well. Who care I've done 'em all now. The summer of climbing lies ahead. After the exam we jumped in Joe's car, went to his for lunch and then to Coniston. It had been ages since I went to Dow and i took the wrong tunring on the walk in, making it much steeper! I won't make that mistake again. It was really muggy and humid on the walk in, I was dripping by the foot of the crag.
Anyway, what a route, 6 stunning pitches, good gear and interesting climbing throughout. Joe and I swung leads. Although we could have run it together as 3 long pitches it was great fun to climb slowly and mull over such a stunning route. Pitch 5 was the best, with a brilliant moves as you traverse across the slab, under the overhang with all that space beneath you feet. Superb. Maybe the best VS in the Lakes?
From the summit with donned our boots, climbing on to the summit. We then walked down to the col, dumping our rucksacks and nipping on to Coniston Old Man. We then walked back passed the crag and down the car. A stunning route on a stunning day.
The Desicion Maths AS Exam this morning, went quite well. Who care I've done 'em all now. The summer of climbing lies ahead. After the exam we jumped in Joe's car, went to his for lunch and then to Coniston. It had been ages since I went to Dow and i took the wrong tunring on the walk in, making it much steeper! I won't make that mistake again. It was really muggy and humid on the walk in, I was dripping by the foot of the crag.
Anyway, what a route, 6 stunning pitches, good gear and interesting climbing throughout. Joe and I swung leads. Although we could have run it together as 3 long pitches it was great fun to climb slowly and mull over such a stunning route. Pitch 5 was the best, with a brilliant moves as you traverse across the slab, under the overhang with all that space beneath you feet. Superb. Maybe the best VS in the Lakes?
From the summit with donned our boots, climbing on to the summit. We then walked down to the col, dumping our rucksacks and nipping on to Coniston Old Man. We then walked back passed the crag and down the car. A stunning route on a stunning day.
Sunday, 3 June 2007
Sunday 3 June - King's Meanburn
Scarlet Lyvennet - MVS 4a. With Caitlin Ripley.
After a somewhat dull, but necessaryweek of revison I was allowed out for an afternoons cragging. I set of up the flake (HS) first, but it was dirty and so i tohugh this looked better. A nice face climb with some bridging to begin with. Good gear all the way.
The Small Assassin - VS 5b. With Caitlin Ripley.
I asked Cailtin to choose the next route. She told me it was VS, but failed to mention the 5b. A nice boulderary start on the sandstone, followsed by runners and a strenous limestone crack, which I avoided to the right. If I had climbed climbed the crack direct I reckon the route would be E1.
TD Corner - Mild Severe. With Caitlin Ripley.
After Caitlin tried to lead Owl Crack, a vile MS (FRCC have interestingly given this Mod). I went up this corner, must be only limestone route in the world that requires number 4 friends, not that i had one.
Marik - HVS 5a ***. No second.
Caitlin had got bored by now, so I got Ian to belay me. I tried to do Ivy Crack, a steep E1 5b, but steep polished limestone is not my fortee. Not deteter I wandered round the corner to do Marik. This excellent VS, now HVS, was just as remebered it. Steep, fairly sustained climbing with bomber gear all the way. Unfortuanatley it is slightly polised and bit sandy. A serious contender for the best Cumbrian Very Severe (or HVS if you must) outside lakeland. Superb.
After a somewhat dull, but necessaryweek of revison I was allowed out for an afternoons cragging. I set of up the flake (HS) first, but it was dirty and so i tohugh this looked better. A nice face climb with some bridging to begin with. Good gear all the way.
The Small Assassin - VS 5b. With Caitlin Ripley.
I asked Cailtin to choose the next route. She told me it was VS, but failed to mention the 5b. A nice boulderary start on the sandstone, followsed by runners and a strenous limestone crack, which I avoided to the right. If I had climbed climbed the crack direct I reckon the route would be E1.
TD Corner - Mild Severe. With Caitlin Ripley.
After Caitlin tried to lead Owl Crack, a vile MS (FRCC have interestingly given this Mod). I went up this corner, must be only limestone route in the world that requires number 4 friends, not that i had one.
Marik - HVS 5a ***. No second.
Caitlin had got bored by now, so I got Ian to belay me. I tried to do Ivy Crack, a steep E1 5b, but steep polished limestone is not my fortee. Not deteter I wandered round the corner to do Marik. This excellent VS, now HVS, was just as remebered it. Steep, fairly sustained climbing with bomber gear all the way. Unfortuanatley it is slightly polised and bit sandy. A serious contender for the best Cumbrian Very Severe (or HVS if you must) outside lakeland. Superb.
Sunday, 27 May 2007
Saturday 27 May - Gimmer Crag
Kippling Groove - HVS 5a ***. With Joseph Dixon and Andrew Mitchell.
Wow! What a route, despite my slight stupidity with regard to route finding and mainly being dim we got to the bottom of the climb. The overlap, was just as remember it, just not as gripping. Looked up to the groove of Equus, which looks stunning definatley one for later in summer. The top pitch, which is equally brilliant and quite sustianed with two definite cruxes kept me entertained. The crux felt a damm sight harder from when I first climbed the route, aged 14 and lived up to it reputation of being ruddy hard. (Ruddy 'ard, Ruddyard, Kippling Groove. Get it.) Whilst belaying at the top, I saw a guy take a pretty cool fall of Spring Bank, that wee roof looks spicy.
D Route - Severve *. With Joseph Dixon.
After abing off, Joe and myself descided to quickly nip up this rather nice little route. Met Ian Jackson from UKC on the top.
Wow! What a route, despite my slight stupidity with regard to route finding and mainly being dim we got to the bottom of the climb. The overlap, was just as remember it, just not as gripping. Looked up to the groove of Equus, which looks stunning definatley one for later in summer. The top pitch, which is equally brilliant and quite sustianed with two definite cruxes kept me entertained. The crux felt a damm sight harder from when I first climbed the route, aged 14 and lived up to it reputation of being ruddy hard. (Ruddy 'ard, Ruddyard, Kippling Groove. Get it.) Whilst belaying at the top, I saw a guy take a pretty cool fall of Spring Bank, that wee roof looks spicy.
D Route - Severve *. With Joseph Dixon.
After abing off, Joe and myself descided to quickly nip up this rather nice little route. Met Ian Jackson from UKC on the top.
Sunday, 20 May 2007
Saturday 19 May - Brimham Rocks
Great Slab - HVD *. With Andrew Mitchell
Pooring with rain in the Lakes today,.so set off to Brimham with the hope of finding dry rock. This turned out to be a good crag choice being bone dry, but it was extremly windy especially on top of the little Gritstone tors. First grit of the year and it was nice to lower my grade a little. Good wee route.
Square Route - HS 4b *. With Andrew Mitchell.
Another nice wee climb, really nice frictiony, rockover moves of the type that you never really get in the Lakes.
Thin Line - HVS 5a **. With Andrew Mitchell.
Very similar vain to the lastroute. Cool rockovers betwen horisontal breakes and bomber friends. Not sure if it was HVS, felt loads easier than Rough Wall.
Heather Wall - S *. With Andrew Mitchell.
A good route with quite a technical first move. Then very easy.
FAILURE! (again!) - Rough Wall - VS 5a ***. With Andrew Mitchell.
Thought i'd attempt to lead this excellent route again over a year on from my first attmept. failed at exactly the same place, the very top move. I must have tried it 4 or 5 times, but couldn't commit to it. I think i need to improve my bondy tension. This route is becoming something or an archnemises for me, maybe I'll lead it one day.
WARNING ALWAYS CHECK THAT BOTH ABSAIL ROPES ARE TOUCHING THE FLOOR!
I nearly killed myself while absailing to strip the gear on this route. I failed to chech whether both ropes were touching the floor and as a result nearly abbed of the end. ALWAYS TIE A KNOT IN THE END.
Majoa - VS 4c **. With Andrew Mitchell.
Best route I did all day. Great climbing, with a cool layaway up the fluttings.
Central Crack - VS 5a **. With Andrew Mitchell.
Last route of the day. Really nice hand/fist jam crack up until the body jam crack at the top. When it started to rain, had a top rope lowered! Poor effort. Need to work on offwidths.
Pooring with rain in the Lakes today,.so set off to Brimham with the hope of finding dry rock. This turned out to be a good crag choice being bone dry, but it was extremly windy especially on top of the little Gritstone tors. First grit of the year and it was nice to lower my grade a little. Good wee route.
Square Route - HS 4b *. With Andrew Mitchell.
Another nice wee climb, really nice frictiony, rockover moves of the type that you never really get in the Lakes.
Thin Line - HVS 5a **. With Andrew Mitchell.
Very similar vain to the lastroute. Cool rockovers betwen horisontal breakes and bomber friends. Not sure if it was HVS, felt loads easier than Rough Wall.
Heather Wall - S *. With Andrew Mitchell.
A good route with quite a technical first move. Then very easy.
FAILURE! (again!) - Rough Wall - VS 5a ***. With Andrew Mitchell.
Thought i'd attempt to lead this excellent route again over a year on from my first attmept. failed at exactly the same place, the very top move. I must have tried it 4 or 5 times, but couldn't commit to it. I think i need to improve my bondy tension. This route is becoming something or an archnemises for me, maybe I'll lead it one day.
WARNING ALWAYS CHECK THAT BOTH ABSAIL ROPES ARE TOUCHING THE FLOOR!
I nearly killed myself while absailing to strip the gear on this route. I failed to chech whether both ropes were touching the floor and as a result nearly abbed of the end. ALWAYS TIE A KNOT IN THE END.
Majoa - VS 4c **. With Andrew Mitchell.
Best route I did all day. Great climbing, with a cool layaway up the fluttings.
Central Crack - VS 5a **. With Andrew Mitchell.
Last route of the day. Really nice hand/fist jam crack up until the body jam crack at the top. When it started to rain, had a top rope lowered! Poor effort. Need to work on offwidths.
Monday, 14 May 2007
Monday 14 May - Reecastle and Shepherds.
The Noose - HVS 4c (5a in my book) * - With Joseph Dixon.
Headed to the crag after a stressful day at school. History exam went ok, newer have to think about the stupid 1832 great reform act again. It was great going in Joe's car rather than having to get lift every where with parents. Reecastle was much wetter than I exspected. I started up the rack, which looked wet and turned out to be soaked. Went on the Noose instead. Awkward and strenous, was how i remember it and that time it wasn't wet. This time it was and I had a bit of a wobbler on the groove and then speant ages at the top trying to work out this move, which was much simpiler than it seemed. I had a look at the Gibbet Direct, but E2 is had enough when its dry let alone wet!
Little Chamonix - V Diff *** - With Joseph Dixon.
Thought we'd get second route in. Dashed up little cham in trainers in two pitches. Fisrt time I've done it this year, but still brill.
Headed to the crag after a stressful day at school. History exam went ok, newer have to think about the stupid 1832 great reform act again. It was great going in Joe's car rather than having to get lift every where with parents. Reecastle was much wetter than I exspected. I started up the rack, which looked wet and turned out to be soaked. Went on the Noose instead. Awkward and strenous, was how i remember it and that time it wasn't wet. This time it was and I had a bit of a wobbler on the groove and then speant ages at the top trying to work out this move, which was much simpiler than it seemed. I had a look at the Gibbet Direct, but E2 is had enough when its dry let alone wet!
Little Chamonix - V Diff *** - With Joseph Dixon.
Thought we'd get second route in. Dashed up little cham in trainers in two pitches. Fisrt time I've done it this year, but still brill.
Saturday, 5 May 2007
Saturday 5 May - Grey Crag Buttermere
Unfortuanatley due to lack of climbing partner and obscene amounts of revison i've been unable to get out in the stunning weather all week.
Harrow Butteress - Diff ** - With Ian Carter.
Set off home earlyish to avoid the bank holiday crowds in Buttermere. The walk in was pleasant and took longer than exspected. My feet were a little sore in my plastics, but they soon settled down. We arrived at the crag, via a very tedious scree slope and just before the crowds. We geared up for moving together and i lead off. The climbing was superb and flowing, but quite short. A great Diff, but not as good as Corvus.
Slab Ordinary - V Diff * - With Ian Carter.
From the top of Harrow Butteress we countinued moving together to the foot of the next butteress. I set off up the first pitch of Slab West Route, a somewhat bold Hard Severe, but ended up on the belay ledge of Slab Ordinary. The first pitch of Slab West Route I'm sure offers excellent slab climbing, however it was rather interesting in plastic boots and the lack of gear focuses the mind. We then followed Slab Ordinary to the top, which we moved together on.
Oxford and Cambridge Direct - Mild Severve *** - With Ian Carter
Wow. A stunning line on superb, perfect rock. We climbed it as two pitches, the first was good, but not as memorable as the second, which climbs up to a crack on to a slab where the crack contiues and then continues some more as the rock steepens. The climbing was excellent and the gear was good, with a great sort of rock overmove (remember you can't smear in big boots) up to an insitu cam, which wouldn't sucum to Ian's efforts. A strong candidate for the best easy line in the Lakes. We than, after a quick chat about first aid, walked pleasantly along to Sticks Pass and down to the car. Another stunner in the Lakes. I called in at Needle Sports on the way home and brought North Wales Rock and by the looks of it there are some equally stunning days to be had down there!
Harrow Butteress - Diff ** - With Ian Carter.
Set off home earlyish to avoid the bank holiday crowds in Buttermere. The walk in was pleasant and took longer than exspected. My feet were a little sore in my plastics, but they soon settled down. We arrived at the crag, via a very tedious scree slope and just before the crowds. We geared up for moving together and i lead off. The climbing was superb and flowing, but quite short. A great Diff, but not as good as Corvus.
Slab Ordinary - V Diff * - With Ian Carter.
From the top of Harrow Butteress we countinued moving together to the foot of the next butteress. I set off up the first pitch of Slab West Route, a somewhat bold Hard Severe, but ended up on the belay ledge of Slab Ordinary. The first pitch of Slab West Route I'm sure offers excellent slab climbing, however it was rather interesting in plastic boots and the lack of gear focuses the mind. We then followed Slab Ordinary to the top, which we moved together on.
Oxford and Cambridge Direct - Mild Severve *** - With Ian Carter
Wow. A stunning line on superb, perfect rock. We climbed it as two pitches, the first was good, but not as memorable as the second, which climbs up to a crack on to a slab where the crack contiues and then continues some more as the rock steepens. The climbing was excellent and the gear was good, with a great sort of rock overmove (remember you can't smear in big boots) up to an insitu cam, which wouldn't sucum to Ian's efforts. A strong candidate for the best easy line in the Lakes. We than, after a quick chat about first aid, walked pleasantly along to Sticks Pass and down to the car. Another stunner in the Lakes. I called in at Needle Sports on the way home and brought North Wales Rock and by the looks of it there are some equally stunning days to be had down there!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
