Brockenclock - E2 5a 5c 5b - ***. With Francis Blunt.
After getting rained off the Borrowdale and failing pathetically at the Bowderstone. We descided Pavey Ark and an early start was best bet. Left mine at 7:30. Walking up to the crag with a winner of the LAMM A class was knackering. Francis lead the first pitch to warm himslef up. I'm glad as even seconding it was a firece warm up! Francis the lead the imaculet, but short 5c slab, which was awsome. I then lead the steep 5b pitch, which was quite impressive for me, as I normally avoid anything close to an overhang. Francis ran it out in a long easy pitch to the top. Spot on route.
Monday, 6 August 2007
Sunday 22 Hodge Close Quarry.
Behind the Lines - HVS 5a ***. With Will Sim and John.
A good HVS. Cool climbing and Bomber gear. Placed all my quickdraws. Finally got up a pitch with Mr Sim!
Malice in Wonderland - E3 5c ***. With Will Sim.
Sat at the bottom for ages, while Will tried this superb looking route. He got right up on to the blank arete, but got gripped. He then made a belay and then escaped up the top of Through the looking glass. A good route, but not the real thing. Hitched home, with this weido from Carlise.
A good HVS. Cool climbing and Bomber gear. Placed all my quickdraws. Finally got up a pitch with Mr Sim!
Malice in Wonderland - E3 5c ***. With Will Sim.
Sat at the bottom for ages, while Will tried this superb looking route. He got right up on to the blank arete, but got gripped. He then made a belay and then escaped up the top of Through the looking glass. A good route, but not the real thing. Hitched home, with this weido from Carlise.
Friday 20 July - Burnt Crag
After a long hitch/walk in the drizzle I finally met Will. We walked up to Burnt Crag, which was quite dry. I started off up this steep HVS 5b on the righthand side of the crag. I got to the crux, which was a very long reach, and after severall attempts lowered off. The loose block, did little to calm my nerves! William tied onto my ends of the ropes and pulled through the crux, but promptly fell off. The easiest route he has ever fallen, he alleges. He then got back on and climbed it. I followed.
I then belayed William on some E4, with a peg in it, which he fell off repeatedly until desciding to leaving for another day. I then belayed him on Shifter, which he backed off due to crack being wet. A fairly unsucsessful day. Will dropped me off at Cockley Beck and I had a fairly exciting hitch home. Oh well it was a bit of an adventure.
Thursday, 19 July 2007
Thursday 19 July - Gimmer Crag
F Route - VS+ 4c ***. With Paul Whittham.
It took me two lifts to hitch from mine to Paul's (Troutbeck). From there we hitched along the A66, down St John's in the Vale to Ambleside and through to Langdale with a grand total of 5 lifts and taking 2 hours. We then walked up to Gimmer which was, as ever, knackering. I lead off up F Route, a brilliant pitch, which I had followed some years ago with Dad. I do remember it being hard for VS then. It still was, luckily the route has good gear all the way up and another good hold always seemed to appear. I was Paul's first route of the year and he followed with style. A good effort. I wouldn't be suprised if this get upgradded to HVS 4c in the next Langdale guide.
Whits End Direct - E1 5b **. With Paul Whittham.
A good pitch, faily thin and sustained at E1, but at least it had ample protection. The first moves up to diagonal flake were pretty go-for-it with no time to hold on to place kit. Luckily runners and a good rest appeared after. The climbing then continued up the slab on small bit posertive holds, just my style to a good rest benaeth overhang, where small wires could be fixed. I then climbed up on small holds, but failed to work out the sequence to get to the overlap. Reversed back, rested and tried again. This time I got to overlap, where a friend slotted in nicley, couldn't workout how to get into the hanging corner so climbed back down. Tried again. Got into the corner this time, where I could rest and place another friend. Then made a thin move up and right to a good hold. Easy slab climbing to the top. Paul descided that wearing tight rock boots was too painful for his ingrowing toe so I absailed off to remove the kit. Luckily I met Matt and Francis from OB and they kindly brought my gear down with them. Cheers Guys. Walked back to Langdale had a swift pint and then hitched back to Paul's in four lifts, via Keswick this time. Another exciting day in the lakes.
It took me two lifts to hitch from mine to Paul's (Troutbeck). From there we hitched along the A66, down St John's in the Vale to Ambleside and through to Langdale with a grand total of 5 lifts and taking 2 hours. We then walked up to Gimmer which was, as ever, knackering. I lead off up F Route, a brilliant pitch, which I had followed some years ago with Dad. I do remember it being hard for VS then. It still was, luckily the route has good gear all the way up and another good hold always seemed to appear. I was Paul's first route of the year and he followed with style. A good effort. I wouldn't be suprised if this get upgradded to HVS 4c in the next Langdale guide.
Whits End Direct - E1 5b **. With Paul Whittham.
A good pitch, faily thin and sustained at E1, but at least it had ample protection. The first moves up to diagonal flake were pretty go-for-it with no time to hold on to place kit. Luckily runners and a good rest appeared after. The climbing then continued up the slab on small bit posertive holds, just my style to a good rest benaeth overhang, where small wires could be fixed. I then climbed up on small holds, but failed to work out the sequence to get to the overlap. Reversed back, rested and tried again. This time I got to overlap, where a friend slotted in nicley, couldn't workout how to get into the hanging corner so climbed back down. Tried again. Got into the corner this time, where I could rest and place another friend. Then made a thin move up and right to a good hold. Easy slab climbing to the top. Paul descided that wearing tight rock boots was too painful for his ingrowing toe so I absailed off to remove the kit. Luckily I met Matt and Francis from OB and they kindly brought my gear down with them. Cheers Guys. Walked back to Langdale had a swift pint and then hitched back to Paul's in four lifts, via Keswick this time. Another exciting day in the lakes.
Tuesday 17 July - Castle Rock
Watchtower - E2 5a 5b **. With William Sim.
Met Will in Keswick after a fairly sucessful hitch and after descding that we betwen us we'd practically 'cleaned out' borrowdale plumbed for Castle Rock as a good bet. Unfortuantley North Crag was a bit wet, but that was nothing to deter the Sim-Ripley duo. I set of up the wet, minging, horrid 5a pitch which fortuanatley had half reasonable kit on it. Arrive at an awkward stopper 5a move, which i descide I can't do and shamefully loweroff. The pitch sucumes to awsome Simster effortlessly.
Now the wild 5b pitch which Will lead without problem. My turn. I arrive at the bottom of the finger width layback crag, "This looks impossible", luckily although strenous you could fsink your fingers deep into the crack (ooerr misus!) and layback it to the ledge on OHB. From there you climb strenously up steep ground, on good but hollowe hold. Glad he lead it not me.
Triemain Eliminate - E2 5a (yeah right) 5b. With William Sim.
Yet another Brown and Whillans route that I can't even second! I'm conviced those two wern't human. Will Jinxed me by saying, "I bet you have to lower off this 5a pitch too", just after I left the ground. Bastard. Sure enough I got to the stopper move, which when seconding felt much more like 5b to me, and lowered off. Will lead and I followed. The next pitch was a steep wet overhanging corner, throughally unpleasant looking if you ask me, but nothing deters the Sim mister. He cruises it. My turn. Steep climbing is not my fortee. Pull up, gibber, "tight", gibber pull up, flick a runner out, "take!". This countinued until I got the stuck cam, which I got well and truly pumped attempting to remove and eventually rested on the rope. "Fuck it, I'll get it on the way down, Just having a rest Will." Pull up, gibber, "tight", gibber, sags on rope. At which ponit Will announce that he can't hold on much longer and my great weight is hirting him, so I sucumb and he lowers me off. From the ground I am four metre out from the foot of the crag, Castle Rock is desceptivley overhanging. I'll need to get very strong before I lead that one.
Met Will in Keswick after a fairly sucessful hitch and after descding that we betwen us we'd practically 'cleaned out' borrowdale plumbed for Castle Rock as a good bet. Unfortuantley North Crag was a bit wet, but that was nothing to deter the Sim-Ripley duo. I set of up the wet, minging, horrid 5a pitch which fortuanatley had half reasonable kit on it. Arrive at an awkward stopper 5a move, which i descide I can't do and shamefully loweroff. The pitch sucumes to awsome Simster effortlessly.
Now the wild 5b pitch which Will lead without problem. My turn. I arrive at the bottom of the finger width layback crag, "This looks impossible", luckily although strenous you could fsink your fingers deep into the crack (ooerr misus!) and layback it to the ledge on OHB. From there you climb strenously up steep ground, on good but hollowe hold. Glad he lead it not me.
Triemain Eliminate - E2 5a (yeah right) 5b. With William Sim.
Yet another Brown and Whillans route that I can't even second! I'm conviced those two wern't human. Will Jinxed me by saying, "I bet you have to lower off this 5a pitch too", just after I left the ground. Bastard. Sure enough I got to the stopper move, which when seconding felt much more like 5b to me, and lowered off. Will lead and I followed. The next pitch was a steep wet overhanging corner, throughally unpleasant looking if you ask me, but nothing deters the Sim mister. He cruises it. My turn. Steep climbing is not my fortee. Pull up, gibber, "tight", gibber pull up, flick a runner out, "take!". This countinued until I got the stuck cam, which I got well and truly pumped attempting to remove and eventually rested on the rope. "Fuck it, I'll get it on the way down, Just having a rest Will." Pull up, gibber, "tight", gibber, sags on rope. At which ponit Will announce that he can't hold on much longer and my great weight is hirting him, so I sucumb and he lowers me off. From the ground I am four metre out from the foot of the crag, Castle Rock is desceptivley overhanging. I'll need to get very strong before I lead that one.
Wednesday, 18 July 2007
Saturday 14 July - Beeston Tor
Nocturne - VS 4c *. With Caitlin Ripley.
Stopped off at Beston for a quick route on the way to Bill's. I lead Caitlin up this nice slaby VS, it would have be excellent but all the pockets had silt in them somewhat spoiling the climbing. The climb felt a bit disjonited as it finished halfway up the crag. Thorn the *** HVS to left looks stunning with a really exsposed second pitch. A white peak trip is definatley on the cards soon.
Stopped off at Beston for a quick route on the way to Bill's. I lead Caitlin up this nice slaby VS, it would have be excellent but all the pockets had silt in them somewhat spoiling the climbing. The climb felt a bit disjonited as it finished halfway up the crag. Thorn the *** HVS to left looks stunning with a really exsposed second pitch. A white peak trip is definatley on the cards soon.
Friday, 13 July 2007
Sunday 8 July - Gowbarrow
Susan - HVS 5a **. With William Ripley.
Fucked up again. Can't climb cracks. Espeacially gay ones, which involve fist jamming and are damp and greasy. Looks a good route though. Failed at the crux halfway up, don't forget your cams up #4 and double up on #2.5-3.5. Don't bother bring any wires.
Fucked up again. Can't climb cracks. Espeacially gay ones, which involve fist jamming and are damp and greasy. Looks a good route though. Failed at the crux halfway up, don't forget your cams up #4 and double up on #2.5-3.5. Don't bother bring any wires.
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